The Essence Of Travelling…….

Robert Louis Stevenson very famously said ” I travel not to go anywhere, but to go.I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move”.

As a child I despised geography , and I give full credit of that hatred to the Indian education system. Right from the inception of our academic charade the only thing taught in the name of education is ‘How to mug up and spew it out’. Imagine, a subject like geography which is all about travel and experiences forced down a child’s throat like a nauseating glass of milk. Distaste for any act performed under coercion is natural, and this explained my aversion to geography. The reason why I choose to highlight my abhorrence for this subject as a child in particular, is to give my present irony laced love for it  more meaning. As an adult I have come to love geography, because as an adult I got aquainted with the essence of geography : Travelling.
Travelling as I have grown to realise, is all about exploration, adventure,knowledge,curiosity and spirituality. If I were to make my own quote on travel i’d say “Travelling is all about life”. My metamorphosis from a geography phobic 8 yr old to a 30 yr old travel freak is a story in itself.

The entire credit for this transmogrification goes to my father,a gypsy at heart tied down by social norms.If he had his way, he would constantly be on the move and I guess the genes just got passed onto me. Being on the move makes me feel alive, it defines life for me and gives it a new found meaning.I was a nomad since childhood, prolonged consistency bored me. I would start feeling stagnated and would almost pray for change. Unlike other children, I loved changing schools because it gave me an opportunity to meet new people and make new friends. I would be elated whenever my father got transferred to a new city,new city meant everything new, new city meant change,new city meant movement. So, while everyone else would groan and grunt anticipating the inconvenience attached to moving from one place to another, my eyes would secretly gleam and I would see its faint reflection in my father’s eyes as well. Hence, the gypsy in me was born very early on in life.

Ask an itinerant and he would tell you that travelling  is a form of education in itself. Thus, my short geography story in the beginning. The sole purpose of education is to impart  knowledge and wisdom, both of which you gain in abundance as a traveler. While travelling to a new place if you make an attempt to soak in their culture,traditions and lifestyle, if you make an attempt to soak in the essence of that land, you absorb a lot more than what 12 years of class room studies will teach you. I am not propagating banishing of the class room system, I am only highlighting the perks of travelling. Travelling broadens an individuals perspective and helps him evolve as a human being. Most of us live our entire lives in a cocoon made up of our social set up, family,friends and immediate surroundings, we only believe what we have been taught to believe and die within the same confined walls of the cocoon. Travelling makes a butterfly out of us.

A lot of people tend to confuse Travel with vacation. In Goa, at a beach shack drinking beer is an idea of travel for many. If I were to recreate that ambiance in Bombay, most of them would not even make an attempt to go to Goa. This is vacation not travelling. To sit,drink and spend a leisurely weekend, an airconditioned room would also suffice.But, if you call yourself a traveler you need to venture out,explore,absorb,assimilate and feel the pulse of the place. You need to connect with the place so that when you leave, you feel you are leaving home.  See the world through a traveler’s eyes every land is his home, every culture belongs to him and every tradition has a familiar fragrance. If we all unleashed that wanderer within us the world would have no boundaries, there would be no cocoons, only butterflies: choosing destinations at will.
So, release the gypsy within you spread your wings and  make the world your oyster. We get to live just once and before we die we owe it to ourselves to completely explore this place called earth which god decided to make our home.  Bon Voyage!!:)

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48 Hours In Udaipur………Eat, See, Experience…..

When my friend Deepak got to know that I was going to Udaipur … This was his reaction….

Deepak : OMG! OMG! OMG! You are going to Udaipur!!!

Me: Huh? yeah!! Why are’ you’ getting so excited?? 

Deepak : Oh! It’s  a beautiful place darling!! It’s soo soo soo romantic! 

Me: Oh! really? But its a regular Indian city … how different can it be??

Deepak : Oh! you have to see it to believe….

Me: Alright so what is there to see in Udaipur?? 

Deepak: Oh! City Palace, Lake Palace, Jag Mandir, Jagdish Temple…..

Me: (Cutting him mid way) Alright! Alright Mr Travel Guide… thanks for the info, rest I’ll figure out myself. 

Deepak: You’ll not like it as much when you step into the city.. but trust me you will leave it with a sense of belonging..

And a sense of belonging I felt!  Deepak’s last sentence echoed in my head while I was boarding my flight back from Udaipur to Bombay.

This erstwhile capital of the kingdom of Mewar (now a part of Rajasthan)  is like that beautiful girl who has lots of scars on her face. You know she is beautiful,but you wish she was spotless. It’s the old world charm that makes her beautiful but the attempt at modernity in spurts makes her seem scarred. You almost hope that they had left the city as it was; soaked in history and stuck in time, with all her stories intact. A lot of structures were brought down, a lot of stories buried and now what remains is an amalgamation of tales,folklore and facts.

The Old World Charm Of The City…….

A View Through A Red Tinted Glass, The Red Tint Ironically Symbolizes The History Of Mewar Which Is Soaked In Blood……..

And The Attempt At Modernity……

Enveloped by the Aravallis on all four sides and dotted with lakes, Udaipur oozes romance. She makes you flirt with her past and present as you walk through her alleys ensuring that by the time you leave, you are besotted with her.

You can never claim to know the city completely, every time you visit her she will show you an entirely new facet. How ever if you have only 48 hours to get wooed by her, then here are some things you CAN’T miss!

I) SEE ……..

1)  The Lakes:  Udaipur is also known as the ‘City Of Lakes’. It has five lakes : Pichola, Fateh Sagar, Jaisamand, Rajsamand and Udai Sagar . Out of which The Pichola Lake is the largest and the most beautiful. It houses the Lake Palace and Jag Mandir and boating on this lake during the evenings is an experience that should not be missed. If you are not the kinds who enjoys boating then even a drive by these lakes is enough to awaken the romantic in you…..

The Boat Ride To The Lake Palace….

Sunset At Lake Pichola…… The Visual Sets In A Sense Of Calmness and Serenity….

Freedom Knows No Fear……. You See A lot Of Such Young Boys Swimming Across The Length And Breadth Of The Lake With Absolute Ease…

2) City Palace :  It is undoubtedly one of the most regal structures in Udaipur. The 76th custodian of the Mewar Dynasty lives in one section of the place with his family. Though wanting to meet him personally would be too ambitious a thought, but the palace along with its pomp,  wealth and history is open for all to see. The sound and light show that happens every evening between 7 to 8 pm within the palace premises is a MUST WATCH. The entire history of Mewar is narrated along with brilliant play of lights. The palace houses many small palaces within its premises like the Fateh Prakash Palace. An entire tour of the city palace will easily take up half of your day,but its more than worth it…..

The City Palace At Night……

One Of The Many Gates Of The Palace Which Are Also Called ‘POL’

Inside The Palace Such Pillars Are  A Common Sight…….

And We Think Only Humans Are Narcissists…:)

Fateh Prakash Palace……

3) Monsoon Palace : Daintily resting its backside atop a hill, giving a panoramic view of the Aravallis and the entire city of Udaipur, Mosoon Palace is literally built in the middle of no where! The best part about this palace is its access route, which actually runs through a wild life sanctuary! Yeah! I m not kidding and to say that the drive up is to die for would be an understatement! But once you enter the palace its dilapidated state disappoints you, for a structure as striking and as well placed, the government authorities don’t seem to have done justice to it. The walls need to be restored and the interiors cleaned up, but nonetheless you cant miss it because the view from here will blow your mind………

As the name suggests the palace was built for the king’s recluse during the monsoons and also to store rain water. Interestingly, this was also the last palace built in Udaipur. So,there you go that’s an added incentive to see the place…….

The Monsoon Palace…..

View From One Of The Sides Of The Palace…..

Main Entrance To The Palace……. 

4) Lake Palace: Though its a property of the Taj group of hotels now, but with a special permission you can visit the premise. Built right in the middle of Pichola Lake and raised on white marble this pristine white structure exudes a dream like aura. The only way to access it is through boats ( now that makes it instantly romantic isn’t it) and it was constructed in the year 1746 by Rana Jai SIngh as his summer resort. Sigh! No wonder they call it a king’s life, a summer resort made of marbles right in the middle of a lake! And we lesser mortals have to work hard even to see it. But trust me it is truly worthy of all the struggle. Try not to miss this one….

At Any Hour Of The Day, It Is A Common Sight To See Boats Approaching The Palace…….

5) Jagdish Temple: Since I am an atheist, the only thing about a temple that fascinates me is its architecture. Built in the year 1651 and situated close to the city palace this Vishnu temple is an architectural wonder comprising of carved pillars, decorated ceilings, painted walls and huge halls. It demands a visit, not because it adheres to a particular religious belief, but because it offers a visual treat.

6) Ghangaur Ghat : A ‘ghat’ essentially means a broad flight of steps leading down to a river in Hindi and Gangaur ghat is just that with the difference being that instead of a river the steps lead down to the Pichola Lake. But its not these steps that make Gangaour Ghat famous, its the energy of the entire place that secures it a spot in the list of ‘Must visit’ places in Udaipur. It has Restaurants, Shops, Hotels, Havelis, Activity, Frenzy…….basically it has LIFE! It’s a place whose vibe cant be understood…. It has to be experienced…..

Dust,Cars,Crowd And Bazaar…… In Between All This An Ancient Structure Trying Hard To Make Its Presence Felt…..

A Very Common Sight At Ghangaur Ghat…….

Leather Bags…….

II) EXPERIENCE………

1) Baghor KI Haveli : Situated right next to the Gagour Ghat, this age old haveli is a museum and a cultural center. Built by the Prime MInister of Mewar, this Haveli is famous for its architecture, history and cultural shows. Every evening from 7 to 8 pm a local cultural group called ‘Dharohar’ performs traditional Rajasthani dance shows inside its premises. That one hour will completely immerse you in the vibrand and colourful culture of Rajasthan. A must watch according to me……..

 The Bhawai Dance: She Didn’t Stop At Two, By The End Of This Act She Had Nine Such Pots Of Different Sizes On Her Head And Was Still Dancing

How She Managed This Is Beyond My Comprehension……

The Traditional Ghoonghat 

2) Heritage Walk : A joint venture between the Municipal Corporation of Udaipur and Krishna Tours and travel has recently started conducting Heritage Walks within the city. Costing just INR 200, this two hour long walk takes you to the unexplored and hidden alleys, havelis and bazaars of the city, giving you a glimpse of those shades of Udaipur that you would have never been able to see by yourself.

Note: You need to book your slot in advance as the walk is cosnducted only twice daily ( morning and evening)

Contact Person : Mr Chinmay Dixit  no.: 09414164680.

III) EAT……….

1) Jag Mandir: An island palace situated in the Pichola Lake close to the Lake Palace, Jag Mandir is the epitome of romantic fine dining.  The cuisine is Indian (Awdhi/Mughlai and Rajasthani) and the ambiance; heavenly. It is the ideal place to take that ‘someone special’ for a romantic dinner. Soft lights, Classical Indian music, gentle breeze, great food and the lake on all four sides make Jag Mandir one of the MOST romantic restaurants in India for me. You have to have to have to experience it…….

2) Cafe Edelwiese : Located right on Ghangaur Ghat this is an ideal place for a hearty breakfast in the heart of Udaipur. The coffee is just how coffee is suppose to be, strong, frothy and piping hot. The sandwiches and pastries are YUMMMMMM and the owner an awesomely cute lady. She ‘ll sit with you and tell you Udaipur’s secrets while you gorge on the heavenly food……

3) The Cafe at City Palace and Ambrai: The city palace has a cafe overlooking the Pichola lake which makes for an ideal setting to sip a pint of beer or a glass of wine while watching the sun set on the Aravallis.

Ambrai is a part of a Haveli Hotel in Gangaour Ghat, overlooking the Pichola Lake with unobstructed views of the City Palace, this restaurant is bustling with people at any hour of the day because of its good, reasonable food and perfect location.

There you go! Your 48 hours in Udaipur are sorted! But as I mentioned earlier, you can never see and know Udaipur completely. Every time you go  back you feel as if she is narrating a new story. And as Deepak rightly said, you’ll leave every time with a greater sense of belonging. Don’t just see Udaipur as a tourist, experience it as a traveler,revel in its rich culture and heritage, in its history which is soaked in blood shed for honor, pride and patriotism. Look beyond the scars…….the girl is strikingly beautiful!

Bon Voyage……

Things Women Must Keep In Mind While Traveling Alone To India….

                                                                                        It’s the long road…..A traveler dreams of, 

                                                                                       It’s the unseen world………. A traveler dreams of, 

                                                                                      It’s complete freedom…….. A traveler dreams of, 

                                                                                     It’s the journey ………. A traveler dreams of,

                                                                                    But as a woman who travels alone, 

                                                                                    A world that will keep me safe…………. Is what I dream of….

Recently with rape cases catching the media eye, India has been in the news for all the wrong reasons. This ‘darling’ of tourists, known for her diverse culture, heritage, history, landscapes and warm hospitality suddenly finds herself topping almost every ‘Most Unsafe Countries For Women Travelers’ list.  Well to say that none of the allegations are true would be a blatant lie, but to say that it is a country where women are not safe at all would be unfair too. India is definitely not as unsafe as projected. Yes! women travelers need to be careful but it isn’t like you are found alone and WHAM! you are raped!

Being an Indian woman who has traveled alone within the country  innumerable times my experiences have been fairly pleasant. I have been eve teased, but that is something I have experienced even in other countries 🙂 I am not trying to say that India is a safe heaven for women travelers, No sir! its not…. But if you take a few precautions, then it definitely is not as dangerous either.

Here are a few things I suggest every woman traveling to India (alone or with another female friend) should keep in mind.

1) Transportation :

a) NEVER EVER EVER take lifts from random people on the highway or even within the cities. This is an absolute NO NO; its like going and slamming your foot on an ax and then crying because you got hurt.

b) Avoid traveling without prior reservations.

c) If travelling by train, book your seats for the AC 3 Tier or non AC compartments as these always have ample number of passengers.

d) Avoid trains that leave at odd hours (especially when boarding from a small town) as the stations during those hours might be deserted and unsafe.

The Indian Rilways is a govt organization and has an online website where you can book your train tickets in advance: http://www.indianrail.gov.in/

e) Flights and buses are highly safe options. Though when travelling in a bus make sure you get down at a proper bus depot and not at a random stop mid way.

A good website to book buses online within India  is : http://www.redbus.in/indexrt.aspx?utm_expid=2728620-32.FKJVp8V7SAK4Mz0ZzmG8uA.1   and for air travel : http://www.makemytrip.com/

f) If you can afford it, then hire a car as it gives you privacy and the driver makes for an added companion who is well versed with the country and its ways.

Cars on Rent is a popular website within the country for hiring cars : http://www.carzonrent.com/ .

2) Stay :

 Avoid staying at random hotels, it is always advisable to have your accommodation figured out and booked in advance. If opting for a home stay over a hotel, make sure  the establishment is run by a family.  Most Indian towns have good 3 star or 4 star hotels. Remote areas invariably have the State Tourism Department guest houses, lodges or hotels  which are well maintained, safe and hygienic.

There are plenty of websites that will give you information on home stays within the country two of those are mentioned below :

i) Best Home Stays India : http://besthomestaysindia.com/

ii) Namastay : http://www.namastay.in/

For Hotel stays:

i) Trip Advisor : http://www.tripadvisor.com/

ii) Booking.Com : http://www.booking.com/

3) Attire/Clothes:

 Indians prefer dressing conservatively. Avoid excessive skin show in order to ‘not’ attract unwanted attention. Beach culture is not very rampant within the country except in GOA and ANDAMAN and NICOBAR ISLANDS. In these two regions, specially South Goa and the less explored beaches in the Andaman, you can see women wearing bikinis without being leched or ogled at.

Ideal clothing ( if traveling through the plains and coastal regions in summers)

i) Lenin pants

ii) Knee length shorts

iii) Light cotton shitrs/ t shirts/ vests

iv) Full length or knee length cotton summer dresses

v) And last but not the least the age old tried and tested ‘Jeans’.

4) Be wary of strangers: 

Do not befriend and trust strangers especially if it is a group of boys/ men or even a man traveling alone. Never accept food from strangers especially in trains and buses not even the elderly.

Indians by and large a quite warm, friendly and helpful yet it is best to always be on guard as you are travelling alone…

5) Medical Aid and Emergency :

It is advisable to carry your own medical kit with medicines for diarrhea, dysentery, cold, cough, flu etc. But in case of unavoidable medical emergencies it is advised to go to a hospital recommended by your hotel. Avoid going to government run or municipal hospitals ( they are unfortunately the biggest source of infection).

Med India gives you a list of hospitals across almost every Indian city/town: http://www.medindia.net/patients/hospital_search/indian-hospitals-city-wise.asp

6) Keep a phone with you all the time :

It is always helpful to have a phone with you 24×7. Sometimes to call the cops and sometimes if you feel even slightly threatened,take out your phone and pretend as if you are talking to someone and giving out your co ordinates. The person in front will immediately know that you are not absolutely alone and will back off. This comes from a personal experience and trust me it works!

7) Hitting the pubs alone : 

Most Indian cities don’t have a very strong pub/discotheque culture. Except for the metros and Goa. Though it is absolutely safe to go grab a drink by yourself, but it is advisable to never leave you drink unattended and don’t get overly drunk. That could land you into serious trouble…!

8) Avoid venturing out alone after dark:

Avoid dark alleys, isolated streets and dilapidated monument sites. You can have a cab that takes you from one place to another, but in cities like Delhi and the NCR region it is best advised to stay inside your hotel post 9 pm. Delhi especially requires one to be ultra careful; more than any other Indian city /town. As much as possible, stick to public places.

9) Avoid camping in the open alone :

Outdoor camping experiences in India are usually organized by established tour operators or experiential travel companies. It is advisable to go through them in case you wish to camp out in the open. DO NOT do it by yourself, as this can truly be dangerous.

http://alternateatlas.com/ : One of the companies that can customize  an experience for you.

10) Jewelry, Cash and Documents:

Avoid wearing expensive jewelry and do not carry a lot of cash. It is preferable to carry a waist pouch/bag vis a vis a sling bag, as the sling bag can be snatched easily. Have an ID proof on you at all times.

11) Carry a pepper spray in your bag:

Even though you might never need to use it, but as they say prevention is better than cure. Carry one with you just in case…….:)

OH! and before I end this post, I would like to list down the regions in India I feel are safe and unsafe for women travelers. These are based purely upon personal experiences.

Regions safe for women traveling alone within India (In random order)

i) Goa

ii) Gurjrat

iii) Rajasthan

iv) Kerela

v) Karnataka

vi) North East States ( Mizoram, Tripura, Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya)

vii) Sikkim

viii) Uttarakhand

ix) Himachal Pradesh

x) Mumbai

xi) Pune

xi) Leh Ladakh

xii) Andaman and Nicobar Islands and Lakshwadweep

Regions Unsafe for woman traveling alone within India (in random order)

i) Bihar

ii) West Bengal

iii) Uttar Pradesh

iv) Madhya Pradesh

v) Jammu and Kashmir

vi) Haryana

vii) New Delhi

India is that woman who is old and wise  and yet is young and virile because she is constantly evolving.  In short India is a land that offers you a myriad of experiences, that are unique and intriguing.  Don’t deprive yourself of them just because you are scared, be cautious and you will do just fine…….:)

 Happy Journey 🙂

                                                                                    

                                          

CHILDREN OF THE TWO WORLDS……..

                                                   

When a child enters this world, he is just a ‘Human’. Gradually he ceases to be a part of this world in entirety, he becomes aware of the fact that this world is divided into two parts; The world of the privileged and the underprivileged. Its ironical and sad that the two worlds that are so different from each other, have adults who divide and children who are all the same be it their ways, mannerisms, thoughts or dreams.

This image is a depiction of the disparity, the unfairness and the cruelty of this world. How the same innocence is killed in some for no fault of theirs and is allowed to develop into curiosity in others. If only this world and its societies would let children be exactly what they are; CHILDREN and give all of them what they deserve; EQUALITY.

MUST DO IN COORG……….

Situated in the Eastern side of the Western Ghats.. Coorg is all about the romance between the clouds and the hills. Lush green coffee plantations, tropical rain forests, hills kissing the clouds, warm people and a cuisine to die for…….Coorg is called the Scotland Of India, but in my opinion it can put Scotland to shame.

Here are a few ‘Must Do’ things when in Coorg:

1) Live in a Homestay in the midst of a coffee plantation:  Coorgis are extremely warm and hospitable, and one needs to live with them to understand their culture which is very distinct, nothing like you would see anywhere else in India.

Most Recommended Homestays:  http://www.homestaykodagu.com/home_stay.html this link gives you a list of homestays in Coorg.

My personal favorite happens to be Silver Brooke Estate : http://silverbrookestate.com and for those of you who still insist upon living in a luxury property then Orange County Resort  is unarguably the best http://www.orangecounty.in/coorg-resorts/

P.S: Coorgis are also EXTREMELY good looking, so all you single ladies and gentlemen hope you are getting the cue 😉

2) Do try the famous Coorgi pork and their Thali: No one makes pork like the Coorgis and if you are a vegetarian, trust me it will make you wish you were not. Just the aroma is enough to get you drooling. Missing it would be akin to sinning 🙂 and if you just can’t think of non veg, then the veg thali is your substitute which is quite nice too. But the pork is OH MY GOD yummmmm:)

Veg Thali : The assortment has you spoilt for choices

3) Visit Bylakuppe :  It  is the second largest Tibetan settlement in India. Spread around 15 to 20 acres of land, there is another world that exists within the walls of this premise. The monastery is HUGE, if you go there around 4 pm you can catch the evening prayer, most of which you might not understand but the chants, the vibrations and the aura all of it make the experience surreal.

Monks praying during the evening prayer, the vibrations of the chants will touch your soul…

4) Go trekking! : Coorg offers different kinds of trekking trails from easy, moderate to extremely challenging. Depending upon your appetite for adventure and exhaustion, pick up one of the categories. But do move you lazy butts to trek here as the terrain is best explored on foot.

Few of the trekking trails run along the river Cauvery….

5) Go Off Roading : Because there are coffee plantations here and coffee plantations aren’t as dainty as tea plantations, you can actually rev up your 4 WD and go for a spin down the muddy tracks.

Off Roading Tip # 1: Try it only if you are reaally good at driving, else you and your car may literally go ‘off the road’ …….

But a visit to Coorg should be in everyone’s travel check list. The place offers nature at her best.

And in the end as I always say, don’t just see Coorg as a tourist…..Experience it like a traveler 🙂

Bon Voyage !!

SPITI : Mysterious, Alluring, Enigmatic and Surreal.

The Terrain Makes You Shut Up And Introspect….

When four girls decide to travel alone, mostly the terrain chosen is one that guarantees ‘safety’ but an exception was made in our case, not because we were daredevils but because we wanted to experience something different. After much deliberation and debate we zeroed in on the rarely accessed, cold, arid and therefore still a virgin district of Lahaul and Spiti in Himachal Pradesh, India. The route from Shimla though longer, worked as an eye tonic because we witnessed the Himalayas gradually stripping off the green to stand stark naked and bare by the time we reached Nako in Spiti. Rudyard Kipling aptly described this valley as ‘A world within the world’. Time seemed to have stopped for those seven days that we spent there, a terrain that is hostile, dangerous, intimidating yet mesmerizing, beautiful and surreal. A land filled with paradoxes, Spiti is not meant to be understood it is just meant to be experienced:)

Best Time To Visit Spiti: Mid April till Mid September. When the rest of India experiences monsoons, Spiti is ‘chillin’ in the sun as it is a cold desert and therefore falls in the rain shadow region. This is the only time of the year when the passes are open and the cold is bearable 🙂

The route via Simla: Delhi-Chandigarh-Narkanda-Kalpa-Reckong Peo-Nako-Tabo-Kaza.

Day 1 ( Delhi- Narkanda, Time Taken : 7  hours) : I suggest Narkanda instead of SImla for the first night halt as Narkanda is just 2 hours away from Simla (60 KMS, 8,500 ft)  quieter and not commercialized.  Himachal Pradesh Forest Dept has a beautiful nature camp here, set right in the middle of nowhere surrounded by pine trees, exotic Himalayan birds and apple/cherry orchards. An ideal setting to get your first shot of adventure in order to prepare yourself for the coming days.

P.S: It’s not for the weak hearted, in the night while sleeping when you hear those unfamiliar sounds, suddenly the canvas tent with its flaps held together by a few tattered ropes does not seem like the smartest choice to make. But, nonetheless the camp is absolutely safe and the sounds; just spooky and harmless.

Eco tents at Nature’s Camp Narkanda 

Day 2 ( Narkanda – Kalpa, Time Taken: 4.5 hours ): Kalpa, where we spent the second night is a picturesque village situated by the Sutlej river  in the Kinnaur district. On a day with clear skies, Mount Kailash can be seen in its full glory from here. Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC) has a reasonable, well managed and extremely comfortable accommodation, which can be your pit stop for the night. Kalpa has a lot to offer in terms of natural beauty, from trekking trails to orchards and breathtaking views of the Himalayas. We spent just one day there, unfortunately as we were hard pressed for time and Kaza seemed more alluring :). Though I sincerely feel that the place deserves at least two days for someone to take in it essence.

Mount Kailash Peeping through the clouds at Kalpa

Day 3 (Kalpa- Tabo; Time Taken: 7 hours (including halt for lunch at Nako))  :  The final and last pit stop before Kaza was Tabo.

En route Tabo falls a small village; Nako, which deserves a special mention because of its landscape. The first village in Spiti, Nako is famous for its lake, thukpa and scenic beauty.  The terrain is barren with spurts of colors which make it look like a painting. An ideal place to stop for lunch, before you resume your journey to Tabo.

                                                                                      The contrasting landscape of Nako……….

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Our night halt at Tabo was spent at the Trojan Guest house.  A small establishment run by Mr Lama and his family who are extremely sweet and hospitable, the food here is prepared by Mrs Lama herself and to say that its delicious would be an understatement. The place was not fancy but it was SUPER cute and cozy. Colorful walls, comfortable rooms and the Himalayas saying hello! through the windows made bit of this trip seemed worthwhile.  Stay options in Tabo comprise of Homestays and a few small  hotels run by local families. If you are looking for luxury then this part of the world is a definite NO NO  for you.

Tabo as a village has nothing much to offer in terms of sight seeing  except for the Tabo monastery. which we realized later, was one of the cleanest  and richest monastery in the Spiti Valley. Even the monks here seemed to have come from families which were economically sound as opposed to the others whom we met later.

A monk at the Tabo Monastery…..          

                                                                                     Tabo Monastery 

Day 4 ( Tabo -Kaza; Time Taken: 3 hours) :

The route from Tabo to Kaza gives you the real taste of the Trans Himalayan Range. Rugged and barren the mountains look angry and intimidating  sans any vegetation; they seem to glare at you. The roads are  torturous, curvy and narrow. Trust me, these adjectives are best to describe women, you get roads like these and what you get is your heart in your mouth at every second turn!

Narrow roads and converging mountains mark the terrain…

We finally arrived at Kaza by  4 pm in the evening, with a brief pit stop at the Dankar Monastery.  There are plenty of  monasteries in Spiti but this one stands out because of where it is constructed. The hill on which the Dankar village is situated is a sight to behold. I wish I knew what they called those kinds of rock n stone formations, the sight of it left all of us gaping.

 marvels of nature no architect can imitate – Dankar Village                        

Kaza, is in the middle of literally no where. You drive for hours n hours n hours on a barren landscape, at times wondering if the route is right, struggling to get network on your phones and suddenly you see civilization. Its a mixture of relief and slight dismay because of the same reason ‘you finally reached the destination’.

                              

 Kaza through her different profiles :)……                                                         This is typically Spiti sun n shadow together…   

  The walks seem to lead into oblivion.

Places to visit in and around Kaza: 

1) Restaurants in the new town bazaar: Kaza has been divided into new town and old town. Though looking at the size of the town you tend to wonder why did the administration go through so much trouble. It still seems as small ;). The new town bazaar though has some really nice eating joints. German Bakery (obviously) and a lot of small cafes run by the locals.

2) Sakya Tangyud Monastery : One of the oldest monasteries in Kaza

3) Key Monestery :

From a dist the monastery seems to emerge from the mountain    

                                 check out the dude in sun glasses… 🙂

This over 1000 year old monastery is the oldest learning center in the Spiti valley. The lamas here are very friendly and apart from showing you around the premises will  also treat you with the traditional ‘chai’ 🙂

4) Komic Monastery :

                                   

This one was ancient in the true sense….                                                           one of the few sign boards that you see in the region…

Standing alone at a height of 15000 feet. Komic is the worlds highest motorable monastery and also the most primitive. It  does not even house proper toilets, the lamas still adhere to the concept of open toilets, which are holes dug in the ground. The oldest lama in this monastery is 90 years old who does not remember the last time he saw civilization . Their life is as alien to us as ours is to them. But surprisingly the dreams are quite similar 🙂

5) Kibber Village:

The highest village in the world connected by morotable road. Plan your day so as to have your lunch here. This traditional village, which has  the Tibetian culture ingrained in it has some reallly nice eating joints. We found the food here better than Kaza.  You will also bump into a lot of Israielis and Germans here as this village is the starting point for a lot of trekking routes in this region.

Caution: Do not even THINK of trekking if you are not an avid trekker. For most of us even changing clothes post bathing was an exercise 🙂

6) Pin Valley National Park:  If you are lucky you might  spot the Snow Leoperd or the Siberian Ibex.  The park has less vegetation, extreme temperatures and some very exotic bird species. If wildlife intrigues you then you cant miss this……

Here are some of the do’s and don’ts for a road trip to the Spiti Valley:

1) Avoid night driving as the roads are very narrow, broken at places and the area sparsely populated.

2) Don’t eat very heavy meals and drive, the nature of the road and the altitude can cause vomiting.

3) If you suffer from altitude sickness cut garlic into small pieces, put them inside a bottle of water and keep sipping from it as you graduate to higher altitudes.

4) Once at Kaza (11.980ft) stay inside your homestay/hotel and venture out for short walks for the first 2 days to get acclimatized to the altitude. Don’t jump altitudes right from day 2, you are bound to fall sick!

5) Carry loads of energy food like chocolates, snack bars, jaggery etc with you. They provide body heat and instant energy.

6) Take a BSNL, sim from Simla or Manali, if you wish to stay connected with the outside world because no other service provider works in this area.

And last but not the least: DON’T be a tourist, don’t just see Spiti , Feel it, you will not get the essence of the place unless you experience it like a traveler. Bon Voyage!! 🙂 

Diversity….

The diversity that is this world….. the uniformity that exists within its elements that is the enigma.